Today started in much the same way as the previous two days, with a relaxing morning overlooking the turquoise waters outside the condo. Someone nearby was cooking or grilling food that smelled delicious, which put Matt in the mood for a more serious breakfast than our usual light fare. I wasn't going to protest, so we went back to the House of Cakes to pick up some pastechi and stuffed johnny cake (side note: this is another one of those food names that's different everywhere, apparently).
After another relaxing morning of eating, reading, sunscreen, and a bit of sun, we decided to have an adventure day instead of another beach day.
Our vague goal was to explore Arikok National Park, just to the north/northeast of where we're staying. Along the way, we stopped at the Donkey Sactuary. The side road that led to the sanctuary was lined with dense... hedges? of cactus.
The donkey sanctuary also has some exotic birds, which were wandering around the parking area. I don't think any explanation/info was provided about them.
The donkeys were surprisingly (to us) docile and friendly. It may have all been an act, hoping for some food, though.
I don't think Sabrina was happy about the peacocks, but they seemed interested in seeing her up close.
We walked through the donkey's free-roam area, petting the ones that were inquisitive/hungry enough to approach visitors.
There were many more donkeys than I expected; the website says "130+", although we maybe saw 50 or so.
There was a small visitor center, where one could buy feed to... feed the donkeys. There was a sign providing instructions on the proper technique, which included something like "Only feed from the porch railing. Do not feed them while between donkeys, or they will swarm you."
Just down the road from the donkeys, we arrived at the visitor center for the park. There were goats roaming the hills, among the cacti, and also in the road.
The hills were dotted with cacti and goats, in every direction.
We weren't really equipped or dressed for miles of hiking, especially given the weather conditions (high 80s, 75% humidity, UV index of 9 or 10), so we stuck to the roads.
We attempted to drive up the gravel road to Sero Arikok, against official advice given our rental car, but abandoned that idea roughly halfway up due to road conditions.
The brush on either side of the road was often a tangle of various spikey/angry plants, including prickly pear cactus.
Instead, we headed along the only paved road, toward the coast, stopping in a few places along the way to take in the scenery, refill water bottles, and take photos.
We parked and walked around at the
Boca Prins Sand Dunes. It was an odd sight, seeing a huge pile of sand in the middle of a barren, volcanic, rocky landscape.
Obviously, there were also covered with cacti, like everywhere else we've been on this island.
Just down the road, we parked on the far side of the dunes, near the beach that's wedged into an opening in the rock.
This view is looking back the way we came. Other than the occasional tour bus and a few other rental cars, traffic was light.
The waves in the this small bay were very rough, backed up by a sign warning against swimming, rip currents. etc.
A barely-serviceable set of stairs descends to the beach, where we obviously had to put our feet in the water just to cool off.
After spending some time staring at the mesmerizing surf, we piled back into the car and continued to
Fontein Cave.
We had been hoping that it would be cooler in the cave, but it wasn't; instead, it was just as hot, but even more humid.
It wasn't a very large cave, but there are 1000-year old paintings on the ceiling, and the tour guide was very good.
Outside the cave, we explored an old farmhouse, with original floors from the 1800s.
The only freshwater spring on the entire island feeds a fish pond, which spills into this area where people were sitting and letting the fish peck at their skin. The tour guide had referred to it as a "fish pedicure". None of us partook.
Continuing on our park tour, we drove towards the eastern exit, stopping one more time at
Guadirikiri Cave.
This cave system was much larger than the previous one, and also slightly cooler than the outside air.
Holes in the ceiling let in some natural light, and this particular one resembles a heart from the right angle, so the tour guide made everyone pose, while he took photos.
The holes in the ceiling are also convenient for the bats, who fly out at night to feed and pollinate all of the nocturnal cactus flowers. There were also a few bats winging through the rooms in the cave, as we toured around.
Just past the park exit, there's a row of
10 wind turbines, providing 20% of the island's electricity. Up close, they were louder than we'd expected, but not what I'd call "loud".
This back exit from the park had led us toward Baby Beach again, so we aimed in that general direction, with the goal of getting a cold drink, maybe a snack, and a swim.
Along the way, we also had an impromptu fresh coconut stop.
We parked in the same area we had previously, two days ago, but this time patronized Big Mama Grill. I think we had somehow missed the fact that it was Flintstones-themed, on Monday.
After snacking and swimming, we explored more of the southeastern tip of the island, starting with the
pet cemetery.
Farther along the road, we stopped at a spot where Google maps suggested there was a lighthouse.
Technically, I suppose this is a lighthouse? There was also a large, circular foundation of
what might have once been a real lighthouse a WWII gun platform, for defending the oil refinery.
In the same area, there was a rough path/track down to the shore, with some rugged terrain and pounding surf.
The wind was violent out here; Sabrina said she had to stand like this to avoid being blown over.
Yet, even on this windswept hillside, there were (barrel?) cacti growing in patches.
There was also a land bridge, being bombarded with waves.
As the sun started to set, we headed back to the condo. But first, we had to stop at this beach area just down the road, where there's a lone tree, to watch the sunset.
We'd had a snack/late-lunch some time around 4 PM, so we cobbled together a sort of dinner out of various leftovers and pantry items.
After dinner, I smashed open the coconuts using a rock that's normally a door prop, so we could enjoy the solids (the roadside coconut guy had only provided straws, earlier).
I think we were out for over 7 hours today, so tomorrow we'll probably spend more time relaxing.
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